How swimming in the wild taught me to let go

By Malavika Bhattacharya

The desire to jump into a beautiful natural body of water; there’s no word for that, but there is a term for swimming in nature’s many rivers, ponds, and lakes—Wild swimming—something that quickly became one of the great joys of my life.

The pools in Meghalaya

The urge first struck me on a family holiday to Meghalaya in 2010. My parents, brother and I set off from Cherrapunjee to visit the—now extremely popular—double-decker, living root bridge in Nongriat. At the time, the root bridges were relatively unknown and unexplored. Even my father, born and bred in Shillong, and his friends had never visited. “All these years, we never knew it existed,” they said. As city people often do, we floundered along the mountain trail and its 3,000 steps. Locals informed us it would take “half an hour; one hour if you’re slow.”

It took us four hours. We were the only people there.

The gloriously secluded Umshiang Double-Decker Root Bridge was framed against an emerald backdrop of rainforest and mountains. The air was thick, wet. We were drenched to the bone. All my brother and I wanted to do was jump into the crystal-clear pool of water beneath the bridge.

The idea was immediately vetoed by mother. Our guide said we could, but mother stared him down. I still think about the blueness of that pool and its magical setting. In hindsight, mother was probably right about not swimming unsupervised in untested waters with no locals around.

Over a decade since that trip, the root bridges are now, perhaps, Meghalaya’s most-visited destination. “Hundreds of people make the trek to Nongriat daily,” says John Raphael, co-founder of Assam-based travel company ChaloHoppo. Their Meghalaya tours often feature swims in emerald-toned natural pools—but always under the supervision of a knowledgeable local guide.

Living Root Bridges in Meghalaya

“Meghalaya has thousands of seasonal pools. The whole charm is finding a secluded spot and taking a dip with just the sound of the birds and forests,” says Raphael.

However, swimming in natural waters is not for everyone, there are undercurrents, weather conditions, and uneven rocks to be mindful of. Meghalaya’s popular sites, like Nongriat, now have rules laid down by the local authorities, especially against swimming during the monsoon. Wild swimming is thrilling, but it’s essential to be an experienced swimmer to begin with, and then follow protocol. Never go alone; be mindful of local rules; and always have a reliable local guide with you.

In India, seeking out wild swimming experiences that check all these boxes can be a task, but there are options.

Last year, in Goa, I found myself plunging into a seemingly bottomless rockpool in the middle of a forest. I’m not quite sure where, as there was no phone reception, but even if I did know, it’s not my place to reveal.

Pools in Goa

Eco-tour operator The Local Beat organises trips to off-the-radar spots where you can jump off a cliff or swim under a waterfall. In a fragile ecosystem like Goa, founder Mackinlay Barreto takes great care to ensure that these experiences are offered safely and mindfully, with respect both to nature and locals.

“Many visitors and recent residents in Goa aren’t swimmers. They aren’t familiar with the tides and depths—the locals are. They can read nature better than anyone else,” says Barreto.

Seeking permission is also part of their ethos. Especially in forested areas, Barreto and his team meet with the village elder to explain how they work. “None of us want litter or overcrowding in such a pristine spot. We don’t tag locations and request our guests not to do the same,” he says.

Arundhati Ail

Diya Kohli

Condé Nast Traveller

Shalbha Sarda

Reaching the rockpool was a covert operation. I followed a vague Google Maps location to a rendezvous point, where local guide Rohit met me and we proceeded on foot, deep into the wilderness. We arrived at a series of rock pools across levels, concealed within the foliage of Goa’s deeply forested interior. Our small group changed into swimwear behind the bushes, waded in, and clambered over some rocks onto an outcrop from where Rohit said I could jump. The water was a shade of indigo I’d only ever seen in the midst of the ocean, so I could only imagine how deep this pool was. A mountain stream to my left, thick forest all around, a pool far below to my right: the only way off this ledge was to jump into an endless, chilly pool of indigo.

Pools in Goa

The thrill was incomparable. There’s a reason why cold plunges are a thing in spas. This was better than any spa in the world. Hours later, when I had safely emerged from the seemingly bottomless pools, I sent my mother a video of my antics only to receive the most unmotherly exclamations in response.

Wild swimming in India typically involves veering so far off the beaten track that you’ll be utterly lost without a guide. It’s about getting away from it all to be able to shed reservations and fears.

My latest wild-swimming adventures in Switzerland were in sharp contrast to my experiences in India.

A particularly hot summer and a population that takes cooling off very seriously means Swiss lakes, and fountains, are full of people. Here, wild swimming happens very much in the public eye.

Most people will think twice before flinging themselves into a major river, what with water pollution, currents, and boat traffic to consider: Not in Basel. Switzerland’s third-largest city goes from business to bathing suits faster than you can say Rheinschwimmen, or Rhine Swimming—a definitive summertime activity, transforming the waterway into the city’s most-loved 'pool'.

Arundhati Ail

Diya Kohli

Condé Nast Traveller

Shalbha Sarda

Rhine swimming

Basel is on Switzerland’s border with France and Germany, and the Rhine slices through the city before flowing into these two countries. There are busy bridges across the water, plus buzzy cafés, offices, and homes on either side. In summer, locals casually step into this very public waterway and allow the river current to carry them downstream.

As an Indian traveller, was I crazy to consider swimming in a major European waterway which thousands of barges and boats ply daily?

My mother’s voice rings loud in my ears as I gingerly enter the cold water, just steps beneath the Museum Tinguely. Unlike in the forests of Goa, there are no bushes to change behind. But this is Switzerland—everyone’s minding their own business so I shed my layers and inhibitions, fling my passport, wallet, and phone into the Rhine, and throw myself in after them.

This is not as foolhardy as it sounds.

In true Swiss fashion, Rhine swimming is rule-bound and organised. There are designated entry and exit spots, marked swimming zones, and most importantly, a way to carry your belongings with you so that you don’t emerge miles away from your clothes. Enter Wickelfisch. This ingenious Basel-born invention is a neon-coloured drybag developed specifically for Rhine swimming. It floats, and helps make you visible to passing boats.

Rhine swimming

Arundhati Ail

Diya Kohli

Condé Nast Traveller

Shalbha Sarda

The first few minutes in the water are unsettling. Terrified that my hot pink Wickelfisch containing my passport and phone will float away into Germany, I hold onto it for dear life. With my arms out of commission, my instinct is to fight the river current with kicks. It’s all very tiring until I realise that trying to swim is pointless. The river will carry me at her own pace.

And just like that, I float into the heart of this modern, medieval city; past Basel’s tallest buildings, the futuristic 205m and 178m Roche towers, towards the grand red sandstone of the historical Basler Münster cathedral, with its imposing twin towers where I’d been just that morning. Under the arches of the Wettstein Bridge and the Mittlere Brücke (Middle Bridge), first built in 1226, the water is almost an iridescent blue—foaming in swirls of white where it meets the bridge pillars.

Swimmers are advised to avoid these, so I float towards the red buoys that indicate a safe swimming zone. When the ferry, powered by the river current, appears a few feet ahead of me, I have to angle myself away from it.

The water is sharp, enlivening. I flip on my back to feel the sun on my face, gazing at the blue Basel sky to try and count the colours of the Wickelfisch on the river; and to watch urban life unfold on the riverside steps, where groups are snacking and enjoying summer on a weekday afternoon.

Before I know it, it’s time to get out before the Johanniterbrücke, the third oldest of Basel’s landmark bridges. As I dry off by the street amidst scores of people, I’m a little less self-conscious, and a little more confident in my wild swimming abilities. All I had to do was let go. And just sometimes, not listen to my mother.

Rhine swimming

Rhine Swimming in Basel is free and self-guided. All info here.

ChaloHoppo does fixed departure and customised Meghalaya tours that cover natural pools off the beaten trail. Six-day group tours start at INR 25,500/person, while customised daily experiences begin at INR 1,500/day.

The Local Beat offers small-group seasonal wild swimming experiences in Goa starting from INR 2,850/person. Contact them on Instagram.